Crossing Uruguay

Finally on the Bikes! Crossing Uruguay Toward Argentina

After a month of waiting and improvising, we finally started our motorcycle crossing of Latin America. What a thrill to climb back on our bikes and begin this real two-wheeled adventure!

Since we were already behind on our original schedule and had already explored the Uruguayan coast by bus, we changed our itinerary: we'd head straight for Argentina and the Iguazu Falls, cutting across the interior of Uruguay.

Tuesday, November 18th: Reunited with the Bikes

We picked up our motorcycles from Waves Logistics. We have to admit that leaving the port and clearing customs went surprisingly smoothly. The appointment was at 2 PM, and by 4 PM we were fully ready to ride.

A stop at the gas station, tires pumped up… and we were off! Well, almost — getting out of Montevideo during rush hour was no fun at all. That first evening, we stopped halfway at a campsite near Balneario Argentino.

Wednesday, November 19th: Arriving in Punta del Este

The next day, we reached our first destination: Punta del Este. The moment we arrived, we were struck by how splendid and clean the city was. The contrast with Montevideo is staggering — it feels like a completely different country.

Gleaming white buildings, spotless, orderly streets… Money is very much in the air here. We even spot a "Trump Tower." We quickly learn that Punta del Este is hugely popular with wealthy Argentinians and is nicknamed "the little Saint-Tropez" of Uruguay.

Our tip: if you can, come off-season. Prices are far more manageable then.

Heading Inland

We leave Punta del Este the next morning, turning our backs on the sea for a few weeks. Having already visited Colonia del Sacramento, Punta del Diablo, and Punta del Este, it was time to discover the country's interior: Minas, San Gregorio de Polanco, Tacuarembó, before crossing the border at Salto.

The locals had warned us: away from the main highway, the roads are rough. At first we thought they were exaggerating… we changed our minds very quickly. We were caught off guard more than once by potholes and rode for kilometres on unsealed surfaces. In some small towns like Paloma, paved streets simply don't exist — it's all ripio (gravel) everywhere.

Back to Off-Road

This crossing of Uruguay was also a chance to rediscover off-road riding. We rolled through vast stretches of grassland, watched cattle graze peacefully, spotted horses roaming free, and even came across some ostriches. We also crossed a few fords, which at least helped cool us down a bit.

Even if the country is flatter than we'd ideally like, we loved the wide open spaces and the easygoing tracks that let us ease gently back into the rhythm of things.

San Gregorio de Polanco

We made a lovely stop at San Gregorio de Polanco, perched on the edge of an artificial lake along the Río Negro. The campsite looks directly onto the lake, and we enjoyed a stunning sunset. Out of season, the bathroom facilities weren't accessible, but most pitches had summer kitchens with a water point and free electricity.

Tacuarembó and Uruguayan Hospitality

After two nights camping wild, we were more than happy to check into a proper place in Tacuarembó. We were welcomed by Claudia and her husband, and had long conversations about life in Uruguay.

We talked, of course, about the cost of basic necessities — especially fuel: €1.70 per litre, comparable to France, despite average wages being much lower. They acknowledged it was tough, but Uruguayans are resourceful and find their way. They also sang the praises of their beef… on that front, we stayed fairly patriotic for now — we haven't been blown away yet!

Last Leg: Salto (240 km, 160 of them off-road)

After more than a month in Uruguay, we left the country with a slight pang. One chapter was closing.

We stocked up on supplies, then headed for the border. We were quite happy to be crossing into Argentina, where prices — petrol especially — are considerably cheaper. It makes a real difference for our budget!

A new adventure begins in the land of football!