Bardenas and Monegros, Spain's Deserts

Four Days in the Desert Furnace

August 5th, 2024

Up at 6:30… well, 7:30 really — we're hopeless! We pack up camp, drag our feet a bit, and head out at 9:30 under an already scorching 30°C.

The plan for the day: a big loop through the Bardenas desert, mostly rideable terrain aside from a few climbs covered in loose gravel and some serious ruts. But man, is it stunning! (except for the wind farms, some of which have burned down…)

Lunch break in Tudela: egg, chorizo, fries… Spanish gastronomy at its finest. A quick coffee and we're back on the road — no lingering in the tarmac furnace.

The Bardenas landscapes are incredible and the tracks are smooth: pure riding bliss! We even stumble upon a cemetery in the middle of nowhere, which doubles perfectly as a water refill stop. With this heat, we'll each drink 5 liters over the course of the day.

We roll into Ejea de los Caballeros for the night: a cold beer, a glorious plunge in the pool, and a solid night's sleep. Same program tomorrow!

August 6th, 2024

Hard to get moving this morning — the night was short. Lots of French campers around, and they all wanted to chat!

We finally get going around 10. Tanks full, heading for the Bardenas Negras. The scenery this morning is breathtaking.

At noon, we take shelter in the shade of an isolated church (still no idea why it's there, but the timing is perfect). The folding chairs prove to be a worthy investment! A quick nap, then back out into 40°C heat…

The afternoon gets a bit more technical with plenty of rocks, but we handle it — not without some overheating. The bikes do their job; the riders do their best to keep up.

We reach the campsite at 5:30 PM, just in time to dive into the life-saving pool again.

(This report deliberately omits the episode of Adeline going down in a field after a missed corner… Let's just say we're making progress off-road!)

August 7th, 2024

Morning stop in Zaragoza for supplies and a quick bike check. This city is a proper urban furnace — a nightmare of traffic lights and intersections. Pure madness!

Right then, let's get back to the desert where we belong. Heading to Fraga.

August 8th, 2024

Departure at 10. We finally find our groove on smooth, flowing tracks deep in the Monegros. It feels like riding on another planet…

Then comes the climb from hell: sharp, jagged rock steps. And disaster strikes — Thomas gets a puncture in the middle of nowhere. A nasty gash in the tire, impossible to fix on the spot.

50 km riding flat to reach the nearest town. We pull in at 2:45 PM, just as the garage is closing at 3! Big thanks to Talleres Arenillas for the lightning-fast repair!

We take the opportunity to settle nearby, in Mequinenza, before our last day in the desert.

August 9th, 2024

Breakfast by the lake, we break camp and hit the road. Already very hot at 10 AM, but the riding flows nicely — we've found our rhythm.

Around 11, things get technical, but we're loving it. Yesterday's flat-tire trauma is still fresh: we check the tires every 30 minutes!

At 12:30, picnic break in Albalatillo, in the shade of a small chapel. Perfect little spot!

We push on quickly — there's still a lot of ground to cover. The afternoon brings wild landscapes but suffocating heat. Fatigue sets in, focus starts to slip… and Thomas makes a mistake. Nothing serious, but getting the bike back up on a hill in that heat is a major workout.

We finally ride out of the desert, a little sad it's already over, but thrilled to have covered these 850 km of pure madness!

A well-deserved shower that evening, a nice dinner out, and tomorrow: the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean await!