Trans-Pyrenees 2024 – Chapter 2

From Argelès-Gazost to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and from Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Tafalla

August 3rd, 2024 – 227 km

We wake up to rain. Given the weather, we decide to take our time and stick to the road to avoid wallowing in mud.

We leave at 10:30, heading for the mountain passes. We'd been told it was sunny up there… On the road, visibility is barely 10 metres: a fog thick enough to cut with a knife.

Despite everything, the landscapes are still breathtaking once the clouds part.

Lunch break (and fuel) in Laruns. The sun finally breaks through in the valley… we're hopeful!

In the afternoon, we weave through small roads surrounded by cows, sheep, and horses. The pastoral scenery is gorgeous — a feast for the eyes.

But don't get too distracted: the road is narrow, the bends come thick and fast, and passing a car becomes a delicate operation.

Coffee and a shandy break in the middle of a flock of ewes… what should have been "just over an hour" before reaching Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port ends up taking two hours.

We get turned away at the municipal campsite — no big deal. We head to another one 3 km away… completely empty! Fine by us — we set up camp.

From 10:30 AM to 6:30 PM, what was meant to be a short day turned into a proper adventure.

August 4th, 2024 – 234 km

Departure from the Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port campsite (and "campsite" is generous — it was closer to a wasteland). At least there were hot showers!

Laundry to do: 30 minutes waiting at the laundromat… never mind, we head straight to Saint-Jean-de-Luz to see the ocean and mark the western end of the Pyrenees.

Mostly road-based itinerary, except for 1 km of rocky track with a steep climb. Then suddenly, a dog springs out of nowhere and throws itself under the wheels. Emergency braking! Thomas goes down, but no injuries — just a few scratches. The crash bars did their job.

We console ourselves with a burger on a terrace, with an unbeatable view of the beach and the surfers.

Then it's Spain-bound. We ride straight to Tafalla. The route is pretty dull, but we know the days ahead are going to be far more exciting!

Damn, the laundry! We're starting to smell, so we end up at the laundromat at 9 PM. We eat late again and get to bed at 11:30 PM.

Tomorrow: up at 6:30 AM to tackle the Bardenas desert!